Painting FAQs

Oil-based paints were once the standard for areas prone to mold or mildew, like exteriors and bathrooms. They should only be applied in temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. However, Grega Painting now recommends considering latex paint for your next project. Recent advances in latex paint and primer combinations have made them as durable as oil-based paints, and they can be applied in temperatures above 35 degrees Fahrenheit. Additionally, many manufacturers are discontinuing oil-based paint, which may make it difficult for homeowners to update in the future if they choose this option.

Grega Painting typically uses spraying to achieve a flawless satin finish without brush strokes, ideal for surfaces like new cabinets. Hand brushing a new color may not provide the complete, even coverage desired on high-end surfaces. A spray gun ensures full coverage and a more even coating for your new paint color. Reserve hand brushing for updating trim and molding. For interior walls, spraying paint is impractical, and using a roller brush is more suitable.

VOC stands for volatile organic compounds, which are present in some paints. At Grega Painting, we don't recommend using high VOC paints on interior surfaces due to their strong and unpleasant chemical smell. Volatile organic compounds are still found in paints, varnishes, adhesives, and other products, but advances in house paint production have made them unnecessary. Surfaces coated in high VOC paint release chemicals into the air, which can negatively affect indoor air quality and health. Most interior paint manufacturers now strive to produce low VOC paints, which are high quality and provide excellent coverage.

Yes, they are. High-quality paints offer richer and more vivid colors. At Grega Painting, we recommend high-quality paint because it is less likely to fade from UV light exposure. Premium quality paint produces better results and typically requires fewer coats.

No, you don't need to remove all the existing paint if it's in good condition, with only small spots, stains, and limited damage. However, priming is always recommended to ensure the old color doesn't bleed through to the new one. Peeling and cracking paint should be scraped away, and holes and imperfections in the wall surface should be patched and sanded.

For better results, it's recommended to prime your home's walls before painting. This is especially important if the old paint color is significantly different from the new one. Additionally, areas that have been patched and sanded should be primed first before painting.

Elastomeric paint is designed to protect masonry surfaces. It helps safeguard your stucco or brick from wind-driven rain, creating a waterproof barrier.

Latex paint typically dries in about 4 hours, while oil-based paint takes between 6 to 8 hours to dry. It's important to allow the paint to completely dry before applying a second coat. If the paint remains sticky to the touch after 24 hours, it indicates a defect and should be primed or removed before applying additional coats.

1. Prepare the Area: Start by sanding or scraping the edges of the hole to ensure the patching material adheres properly and creates a smooth surface.
2. Apply the Patch: Use a drywall patch kit. Cut the mesh adhesive strip provided so it is slightly larger than the hole, then press it over the hole with even pressure.
3. Apply Joint Compound: Smooth joint compound over the patch with a putty knife, feathering the edges to blend it with the surrounding wall.
4. Let it Dry: Allow the spackle to dry for about 24 hours.
5. Finish Up: Sand the area smooth, then paint the wall to match.

1. Patch and Repair: Start by fixing any holes in the drywall.
2. Prime the Drywall: Always prime the drywall before painting. Painting directly on unprimed drywall is not advisable.
3. Remove Dust: Wipe away any dust to ensure a clean surface.

Now, your drywall is ready for painting.

After taping and finishing the seams, it's recommended to apply two coats of premium paint for an even finish.

If you don't prime new drywall before painting, you may end up with a patchy and uneven finish. Additionally, the paint might peel when exposed to humidity.

Spray texture adds both visual interest and physical texture to a wall. There are three main types of spray texture:

• Popcorn
• Orange Peel
• Sand

Canned spray texture is ideal for repairing small areas of drywall. It makes it easy to blend the repair area with the surrounding texture.

For small patches, use a spray texture can. For larger jobs, use a system that provides a consistent, high continuous air supply at a pressure below 50 psi throughout the entire job.

Wait 10 to 15 minutes after spraying. Once the sheen disappears from the first area you sprayed, immediately begin dragging the knockdown knife in smooth, overlapping movements over the surface.

Use an oil-based paint over a premium primer. Apply two coats of paint, ensuring the first coat is completely dry to the touch before applying the second coat.

For an outdoor metal awning, the best primer choice is a premium primer specifically designed for metal, such as Rust-Oleum. Before priming, gently sand the metal surface with 180-grit sandpaper. Apply the primer in thin coats, allowing each coat to dry completely before applying the next.

Start by removing the awning and using a wire brush to eliminate stubborn dirt and areas of corrosion on the metal. Patch any small holes using a metal repair putty like Alvin, ensuring the putty fully cures before continuing. Once dry, lightly sand the entire surface with 180-grit sandpaper. Clean the metal thoroughly with a rust treatment or metal cleaner designed for rust removal. Now, your metal awning is ready to be painted.

Reflective roof coatings are typically applied to commercial roofs for several key reasons. They help reduce heating and cooling costs by reflecting sunlight away from the building. Additionally, these coatings create a protective barrier that extends the lifespan of the roof by shielding it from UV rays, which can cause chemical breakdowns, and minimizing weather-related erosion. The most common types of roof coatings include silicone, elastomeric, and aluminum.

Roof coating should always be performed by a professional. There are four types of roofs that benefit from coating:

1. TPO (Thermoplastic Polyolefin): This is the most common roof material used in commercial buildings today. It requires a single-ply primer before applying the coating.
2. Modified Bitumen: Often found on commercial low-slope roofs, this asphalt-based rolled-roofing material performs well with a coating.
3. EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Terpolymer): A completely synthetic rubber-based single-ply material found on many commercial buildings. EPDM roofs need to be primed before applying a coating.
4. Metal Roofs (Commercial and Residential): Both types of metal roofs can be coated. It's important to apply extra coating to the seams, screws, and penetrations to prevent moisture buildup.

Always ensure proper preparation and application to maximize the benefits of roof coating.

Begin by thoroughly pressure washing the entire brick area you intend to seal. Ensure the brick is completely dry before proceeding.

Choose the type of sealant that suits your needs. Sealants fall into three categories: paint, surface sealers, and penetrating sealers. Paint is the most economical option but covers the brick entirely, obscuring its natural appearance. It requires regular maintenance similar to exterior house paint and has a shorter lifespan compared to other sealants.

Surface sealers, while more expensive than paint, dry clear, last longer, and need less frequent upkeep. They do not penetrate the porous brick surface.

Penetrating sealers are the priciest choice but are designed to deeply penetrate the porous brick, offering long-term protection with minimal maintenance. Some penetrating sealers dry clear and allow the brick to "breathe," preventing moisture damage over time.

When selecting a penetrating or surface sealer, ensure it allows the brick to breathe to prevent potential moisture issues that could harm your home.

Restoring an old, badly weathered deck involves several steps. Start by identifying and replacing broken and rotten wood, which can be time-consuming. Once repairs are done, follow these steps:

1. Power Wash and Dry: Power wash the deck thoroughly and allow it to dry completely.
2. Strip and Sand: Remove areas with peeling paint or finish. If not changing the color, stripping the entire deck may not be necessary. Sand the deck until it feels smooth to the touch.
3. Apply Stain or Sealant: Apply two coats of high-quality premium stain or sealant. Ensure each coat dries completely before applying the next.

By following these steps, you can effectively restore your badly weathered deck to its former glory.

For a 25ft x 10ft room, the entire process of removing a popcorn ceiling, including drying time when using a popcorn ceiling remover spray, typically takes around 10 hours. On a larger scale, you can expect to spend approximately 20 hours per 500 square feet to complete the removal.

After the popcorn ceiling is completely removed, the next steps are to patch, repair, and sand any damage to the drywall. Drywall seams that were previously hidden by the popcorn texture may need to be retaped. Additionally, it is common to find multiple holes and gouges from the removal process that will need patching.

In the past, homeowners were often advised against painting their front door orange because it faded quickly and was difficult to touch up and maintain. However, advancements in paint technology have resolved issues with fading and color matching. Now, homeowners can confidently choose any color they like for their front door.

For textured walls, a matte or eggshell finish is ideal. Glossy finishes can make the texture appear harsh and overpower your room's decor. A matte finish provides a more subtle look that blends well with other features in the room. For the best results, apply matte paint with a "high-nap" or "fluffy" roller brush.